Cheesemonger's Rarebit

If you ask a cheesemonger for a rarebit recipe, you'll probably get a slightly different answer every time. That's because the very best rarebit isn't made with a single cheese at all. It's made with the little pieces left behind after a weekend cheeseboard; the last wedge of Cheddar, a sliver of blue, a piece of Parmigiano Reggiano that's almost finished, or the final spoonful of a rich, creamy Brie.

No two versions are ever quite the same, and that's exactly the point.

Ingredients

 25g butter

 25g plain flour

 100ml whole milk

 Around 100ml beer

 1 heaped teaspoon Dijon mustard

 A dash of Worcestershire sauce

 At least 250g mixed cheese, grated or crumbled (whatever's left from your cheeseboard)

 4 thick slices of sourdough

Method

Melt the butter in a saucepan, then stir in the flour to make a very stiff roux. Cook gently for 1–2 minutes.

Gradually whisk in the milk, followed by the beer, until you have a very thick, smooth sauce. It should be much thicker than a traditional white sauce and hold its shape on a spoon.

Stir in the Dijon mustard and Worcestershire sauce, then remove the pan from the heat. Add the cheeses a handful at a time, stirring until completely melted and smooth. If you're using a soft cheese such as Brie, remove the rind before adding it. Don't worry about exact quantities; when it comes to cooking with cheese, we tend to measure with our hearts.

Leave the rarebit mixture to cool for 10–15 minutes. As it cools it will become even thicker, making it easy to spread generously over toasted sourdough.

Toast the sourdough, spread the cooled rarebit mixture thickly over each slice, then grill until bubbling and deeply golden.

Serve immediately with a crisp green salad dressed in a mustardy vinaigrette.

This Sunday's Cheesemonger's Rarebit

This Sunday afternoon's version made the most of the last pieces left from the week's cheeseboard: Montgomery's Cheddar, Paxton's Cave Aged Cheddar, Paxton & Whitfield Finest English Stilton, Parmigiano Reggiano and half of a Paxton's Triple Cream Brie (rind removed).

The result was enough rarebit topping for four generous slices of sourdough.

Next Sunday? It will almost certainly be different. That's the beauty of a proper cheesemonger's rarebit.