Meet the Grader: Cropwell Bishop Stilton

In the world of cheese, the role of a cheese grader is both an art and a science, requiring a refined palate and a deep appreciation for cheese. We're thrilled to sit down with India from Cropwell Bishop Creamery, a seasoned expert who has spent years perfecting the craft of assessing and grading cheeses.

1. How did you get into cheese?

Like most people – completely by accident! I did Food and Nutrition at Harper Adams and ended up doing my placement with Jo and David Clarke, at Leicestershire Handmade Cheese Co. They were absolutely fantastic and really got me involved with everything cheese related! I did a Christmas with Neal's Yard Dairy, was a buyer for Fine Cheese Co and spent a bit of time working in our family Deli, North’s, but wanted to be more involved in the production side of cheese rather than mongering. I got in contact with Robin about two and a half years ago and he made a job that was a “bit of everything” and so I’ve worked in pretty much every department at Cropwell Bishop, settling as Cheese Specialist which is definitely my favourite bit – who wouldn’t want to have to eat cheese every day!

2. What does it take to become a cheese grader?  

You absolutely need to love cheese!! I’m grading Stilton by at least 8am every morning, which could be a bit much for most people’s breakfast! I think you need a good palette and attention to detail, plus a good memory and organisation. With grading blue cheese you also definitely need patience – it’s an incredibly temperamental cheese so a cheese that looks great on a grading iron can be totally different when it is cut into.

3. What are you looking for when you grade cheese?

First of all, for Stilton, a good coat; dry, golden with a dappling of white mould around the top and bottom. I like to give the cheese a bit of a squeeze as you can feel how firm or soft it is, looking for a bit of a bounce but not too much that it is soft. By using a grading iron, I look at the breakdown of the curd; the paste should go from white to a creamy yellow as it ages, the texture goes from open to filling the grading iron like a dome, and of course, blue mould veining its way through the cheese. I try a few cheese from each batch, just making sure they are smooth, without bitterness and with a slight spice from the blue mould.

4. Is there anything in particular you look for when selecting a cheese especially for Paxton's?

We hand ladle and use animal rennet for Paxton’s, so there is a slightly meatier flavour to the cheese. I look for a cheese that is well broken down (the hand ladled Stilton tend to be slightly softer), but still with time to mature as I know the team at Paxton’s know how to look after them!

5. What can we expect flavour wise from the cheeses that we will be on the Paxton’s counters at Christmas?

With Stilton, each cheese is slightly different which is the beauty of it! I’m looking for that initial buttery flavour that coats your mouth leading into the meaty, brothy punch as the depth from the blue mould comes through and finally ending on a subtle fudgy aftertaste. Stilton is at its best at this time of year, and Christmas wouldn’t be Christmas without it!